Dawn Patrol by Jeff Ross

Author:Jeff Ross [Ross, Jeff]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Juvenile Fiction, Sports & Recreation, Water Sports, ebook, book
ISBN: 9781459800625
Google: pmblEkrokKEC
Amazon: B0080LRH34
Barnesnoble: B0080LRH34
Goodreads: 13597022
Publisher: Orca
Published: 2012-01-01T05:00:00+00:00

chapter twelve

As soon as I made it through the wave, I looked for Esme. She shot up over the crest of the wave and barreled down the backside. She rode her board like a boogie board and came up beside me.

“Where did that come from?” she said. She sounded rattled but excited.

“I have no idea,” I said and laughed. It was exhilarating to be out here.

“Let’s get out to where the rest of the surfers are and see if Kevin’s there,” she said, paddling away from me.

I recognized a few of the surfers from the day before, but there were dozens I didn’t know. People had swept in from around the world to challenge these waves. I overheard someone complain about the size. They had been expecting something bigger.

“Another hour, brah. Chill for another hour or two. These beasts are building,” one guy said.

The waves were breaking in a half circle. They started in front of us and wrapped around to where the other break had been the day before. Now the break was just one giant one. The midsection was higher where the reef was. This drove the cresting wave directly into the black rocks, which, with the height and force of these waves, looked minuscule.

“You going in?” Esme asked.

“Sure,” I said. “When it’s my turn.”

A couple of the other surfers turned to look at us. One of them had a devious smile. “No turns here, brah. You want a wave today, you’ve got to take it,” he said.

The guy beside him shoved him. “Don’t listen to Jake,” he said. “Dude just flew in from LA. Rude-surfer central. You want to take a wave, go for it, man. We’re all just kind of figuring out the lay of the land.”

“Thanks,” I said. Another set was rolling in. It looked like the waves would be much the same size.

“Get on that,” someone yelled.

I paddled into where the wave would crest.

As the wave approached, I paddled hard and stood just in time. I teetered on the crest and shot down the front. It was amazing. I cut to the right and rode the face of the wave before steering slightly up and then back down again. As the wave began to break, I had a moment in the barrel, then stormed forward and shot up the front of the wave, diving off my board and landing outside of where the next wave was cresting. I got back on my board, did a duck dive through the next wave and came out the other side to where the Jet Skis were bobbing.

“Very nice!” Delgado yelled. “Go get another one!”

I paddled back out to the lineup, and the mouthy guy from LA who had been a creep gave me a high five. “Nice ride,” he said. “How is it?”

“Clean,” I said. “Not messy at all. Like riding on a piece of glass.”

What looked like the final wave of the set was rolling in. Jake, the guy from LA, started paddling out in front of the wave before it broke.

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